Powered Subwoofers

A. Although Klipsch has provided download files for remote control operation, we do not officially support any remote control issues. Our tech support group has not programmed any learning remotes to function with the RT series; they do, however, provide the IR codes. Any issues that might arise concerning the programming of remotes would be technical support issues for the individual remote control manufacturers.

Codes for the Phillips Pronto, RTI, and Universal Remote controls are not “read text” files. Unless your remote is programmable via PC, it’s unlikely these will be of any use. If your remote is not one of these brands, you should still be able to obtain files to program them. (See below) To use our codes, unzip them to your hard drive and connect the remote via cable to your computer; the codes are downloaded directly into the remote.

For example, to program UEI manufactured remotes, go to http://www.uei.com. Under products, you should see One-For-All, Kameleon and Nevo. The code should work, once you use a standard number code (1991) to program. In theory, after you have a working remote, a learning remote should be able to "learn" the codes from the programmed unit, just as it would for any other remote.

Logitech has the codes for all Harmony remotes for the Klipsch model subs noted below. All Harmony remotes should accept the same programming. Add the device from the Harmony software in the following manner. http://www.logitech.com

Add “Device”, choose “Amplifier”, choose “Amplifier” the second time, choose “Klipsch” from the manufacturers’ listing and type in the model precisely as they are below for the model you own: 

• RW-10d 
• RW-12d 
• RSW-10d 
• RT-10d 
• RT-12d

A. IMG refers to a type of material used for speaker cones.  It stands for Injection Molded Graphite.

A.

Depending on the absolute phase of your main speakers and amplifier and the distances of the subwoofer and the main speakers from the listening position, the bass in the crossover region may be smoother if you reverse the subwoofer’s phase. Typically, though, phase is left at 0° for most applications.

While seated in your listening sweet spot, play music with bass content that is familiar to you and then have someone switch the 0/180 phase switch on the sub to 180-degrees. This will let you determine if the bass sounds louder in your seating position. The more bass-heavy setting is where the output of the subwoofer and the main speakers are most in phase. Use whatever position (0/180) is louder at your seating location. (Note: some subwoofers may contain a “variable” phase control, which provides variable control between 0 and 180 for even more precise phase control of your subwoofer.) However, if you do not notice any difference when changing the 0-180 setting, it only means there are no issues in your room and all is fine.

A.

Start by applying a test signal (a CD or DVD available through most audio specialty dealers) to both main speakers and the subwoofer at the approximate crossover frequency of your sub. For instance, your frequency might be set at 60Hz. Place a test microphone at the listening location or simply use your ears to evaluate the signal.

Vary the phase (0/180) switch while playing the signal through both the mains and the subwoofer at the same time with the polarity of the main speakers INVERTED with respect to their normal hookup (black/negative to red/positive).

Vary the subwoofer phase until you get the lowest output at the turnover frequency. Go back to mains, and return their polarity to normal (negative to negative, positive to positive); your main speakers and subwoofer phase should be matched. In order to get the phase settings even closer, you’ll probably need sophisticated measurement/test equipment and signal generators.

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If you get little or no sound from your subwoofer, perform a "direct in" test to determine if the problem is more than a simple cable or level-setting issue. Start by using a different set of RCA connector cables, then connect the analog audio out from a CD player or DVD player directly into the subwoofer's LINE IN connections. Then, turn the volume level on the subwoofer all the way down. While playing a CD, raise the volume level on the subwoofer; you should hear the bass portion from the source material. If the subwoofer still duplicates the problem, then the issue may be a blown woofer or involve the sub amplifier. However, if the subwoofer functions correctly, then the issue may be with a cable, the receiver and/or a level setting. 

A.

This could be a ground loop hum/buzz or possibly a transformer hum through the speakers. In fact, large subwoofer transformers are more susceptible to a slight hum noise.

A speaker hum at your listening location is never normal. To determine if the sub amp is functioning correctly, the best thing to do is disconnect all of the connection inputs going into the subwoofer. Keeping the subwoofer plugged into the AC outlet, turn it on; if the hum still exists, there may be a ground loop issue or a problem in the sub amplifier. In that case, the amp should be serviced or replaced. If there is no hum at that point, the issue might involve the preamp or another ‘upstream’ source component. Some common causes of a ground loop hum are cable TV connections, digital recorders or satellite dish receivers.