Home Audio

A.

For most home theater systems, you’ll use a standard RCA connector hookup. This is a shielded wire that is similar in construction to the wires leading from a DVD player to a receiver. It will connect to the single SUB or LFE jack on the back of your receiver and to either of the two inputs on the back of the sub. If you wish, you may obtain a ‘Y’ connector to hook up to both of the sub inputs; this will result in a slight increase in volume.

Cables specifically designed for subwoofer use typically are better shielded than standard ‘patch cables’ and may offer possible noise reduction or cancellation from electrical devices the cable may come in contact with. Some subwoofer cables are directional, (one end always hooks up to receiver, the other to the sub), so always read any instructions that come with your specialty cabling.

A. Although Klipsch has provided download files for remote control operation, we do not officially support any remote control issues. Our tech support group has not programmed any learning remotes to function with the RT series; they do, however, provide the IR codes. Any issues that might arise concerning the programming of remotes would be technical support issues for the individual remote control manufacturers.

Codes for the Phillips Pronto, RTI, and Universal Remote controls are not “read text” files. Unless your remote is programmable via PC, it’s unlikely these will be of any use. If your remote is not one of these brands, you should still be able to obtain files to program them. (See below) To use our codes, unzip them to your hard drive and connect the remote via cable to your computer; the codes are downloaded directly into the remote.

For example, to program UEI manufactured remotes, go to http://www.uei.com. Under products, you should see One-For-All, Kameleon and Nevo. The code should work, once you use a standard number code (1991) to program. In theory, after you have a working remote, a learning remote should be able to "learn" the codes from the programmed unit, just as it would for any other remote.

Logitech has the codes for all Harmony remotes for the Klipsch model subs noted below. All Harmony remotes should accept the same programming. Add the device from the Harmony software in the following manner. http://www.logitech.com

Add “Device”, choose “Amplifier”, choose “Amplifier” the second time, choose “Klipsch” from the manufacturers’ listing and type in the model precisely as they are below for the model you own: 

• RW-10d 
• RW-12d 
• RSW-10d 
• RT-10d 
• RT-12d

A. IMG refers to a type of material used for speaker cones.  It stands for Injection Molded Graphite.

A. A binding post in audio terms is a versatile type of speaker terminal that allows several types of connections. Many times referred to as a "Five-Way Binding Post" it accepts connections from bare wire and connectors attached to bare wire such as pins, banana plugs and spades. European consumer protection legislation now demands that the holes in the ends of 5-way binding posts be plugged. This is to avoid the potential for the user to plug European AC cords into speakers by mistake. The European power plug has pins similar in size to that which a 5-way post will accept.

A. The output of a speaker (measured in decibels (dB)) for a given amount of amplifier power is termed its efficiency. Speakers with high efficiency will require less amplifier power to produce a given sound pressure level. Live music and movie soundtracks have peak levels as high as 120 dB. To attain just a 3 dB increase in volume, an amplifier's power must be doubled regardless what the speaker efficiency. Therefore, the amount of amplifier power needed if you wish to attain the sound pressure levels of a live orchestra or a large explosion in a movie is greatly dependent on the efficiency of your speakers. Here is a chart that shows two different speakers, one with 88 dB efficiency (common) and one with 100 dB efficiency, and the amplifier power need to produce given sound pressure levels:



The above charts show that the typical speaker with a sensitivity of 88 dB requires 1024 watts just to get to 118 dB! A more efficient speaker (example here is our KLF-30) requires just 64 watts to hit those levels of live music and Home Theatre. Therefore, the amount of amplifier power that a person needs is determined by the efficiency of the speaker that person is using plus the desired dB levels he or she wants to be able to produce. Other variables which impact the choice of amp power are the size of the listening room, the absorption characteristics of the wall and floor surface materials and the distance between listener and speakers. In a smaller room and with high efficiency speakers, 50 watts may be enough to provide full dynamic range. In a large room with low efficiency speakers, even 500 watts may not be enough. Higher speaker efficiency always helps deliver the most from whatever power you choose.

A. This is similar to the age-old question "are some speakers better for rock music and others better for jazz and classical". If a speaker is truly accurate, it will perform properly on any kind of music. When it comes to home theater, the same is true for the main speakers. If they can't accurately reproduce music, they will not be good for home theater. Whether one is listening to a classical masterpiece or Terminator2, wide dynamic range, low distortion and flat frequency response are all important to make the sound realistic. A good speaker will be able to reproduce the music or the movie sound as close as possible to the way it originally sounded, whether that was in a concert hall or a recording studio. The only exception is rear and center speakers which must be uniquely designed for surround applications. They too must meet the fundamental requirements of accurate reproduction to be satisfying in the final analysis.

A. Speaker spikes keep the speaker from rocking back and forth in response to driver motion, especially when the floor is carpeted. A midrange or tweeter moves very little on its own, and when bass is strong, the speaker may move more than either of these drivers due to the motion of the heavy woofer cone(s). This will have a negative affect on the sound. If the speaker is kept as still as possible, the definition and dynamics of the sound improves. On hard floor surfaces, the spikes can help to drain energy stored in the speaker cabinets into the floor, which will improve resolution. Make sure you do not use the spikes with a wood floor as this will cause damage to the wood. A coin under each spike, for example, will help protect the floor.

A. There are many factors that have an effect on the way a speaker sounds besides how it is designed. Room acoustics and speaker placement are definitely two of the biggest variables that change the in-room sound. One of the other factors that can change a speaker's sound is its grille. The placement of a fabric or metal grille in front of a speaker can effect high frequency response and imaging. Your ears will tell you which sounds the best grilles on or grilles off. Remember that speaker grills also serve to protect the delicate drivers in your speakers, so if you have curious pets or young children, it may be best to leave the speaker grilles on at all times.

A. Correct speaker placement leads to the best sounding bass and the best imaging. It is generally a good idea to keep speakers 4-6' away from side walls to minimize early reflections. Those reflections upset the tonal balance of the speaker and also interfere with proper imaging. In general, placing a speaker closer to a corner or back wall will produce more bass. Raising a speaker off of the floor (such as putting it on a stand) will reduce bass. The two (or three) speakers you have on your front channels should also have their midrange/tweeters all at the same height in order to create an even image. It is particularly disconcerting when a pan jumps up and down as it moves across the front stage.

Finally, we recommend, with Klipsch speakers, that the midrange/tweeter horn be "toed-in" toward the listener to create the best imaging. Experiment with distance from the back wall till bass balance is smooth and extended. To achieve good imaging without a "hole in the middle" do not place speakers father apart than the distance between you and the speakers. That is, not more than an equilateral triangle. If your speakers are too close together, you will reduce the width of the image almost to mono. Try to keep the distance between your Left and Right speakers a little more than half of the distance from you to the nearest speaker.

A. The rear center channel is a recent extension of both Dolby Digital and DTS 5.1 processing, called EX and ES respectively. It is based on the same principle as the front center channel which is to "localize" sounds in the center of the soundstage or give them a distinct area they are appear to come from, filling in the sound gap between the left and right rear channels. Therefore, the same type of speaker used for the front center may be used for the rear center. Because of the need to "localize" the sound to the center, a monopole center channel speaker is usually the best choice. Some electronics offer the option of using TWO rear center speakers. What will sound best is dependent on the size of the room and what type of surround speakers you choose. WDST™ surrounds generally do not require the addition of a rear center, but adding one enhances the localization of events in the rear sound field.

A.

The "bass management" option on today's home theater receivers is designed to route mid- or low-bass or both frequencies to a subwoofer in the system. What setting you should select is based on the bass capabilities of the speakers in question.

In general, "satellite" and bookshelf speakers should be set to "small." Floor-standing speakers should be set to "medium" or "large" depending on their ability to accurately reproduce deeper bass. At the same time this option is set, the frequency of the subwoofer's bass reproduction should also be set. If, for example, you have small bookshelf speakers you have set to "small", you should set your subwoofer to 100-120 Hz. If you have big speakers set to the "large" setting, you should set the subwoofer lower (i.e. 50-80 Hz).

The correct settings on both the receiver and subwoofer will allow the subwoofer to pick up the bass where the speaker leaves off; creating a smooth transition that reduces boominess at frequencies both the subwoofer and the speaker are delivering. The correct settings are best obtained after experimentation yields the best sound to your ears.

A. Rear speakers are used for, basically, two different types of sounds. Although music applications may have some "localized" sounds (sounds coming distinctly from one of the rear speakers), the majority of the rear speaker's use is to "surround" the listener in sound by simulating, for example, the sound of a large audience in the background and/or reflected music from the rear walls of a concert hall.

Home Theater (movie) sound uses a more even combination of both ambient and localized sounds. The main or front left and right speakers in a system are most often, monopole speakers, which radiate high and midrange frequencies in a directional pattern, thus making them less able to create good ambience when used as surround speakers.

When choosing surround speakers, it is important to use similar mid/high frequency drivers as are in the front, usually staying with the same brand of speakers that are used as mains. The other advantage with using specially designed surround speakers is that their smaller size and mounting capability allow them to be placed in the correct space at the correct height for maximum effect. This is a controversial aspect of home audio as some people advocate use of identical speakers front and rear.

The Klipsch philosophy is to achieve the tonal and dynamic match, which can be obtained with identical front and rear speakers, but with the unique directional characteristics required for a convincing surround experience.