Klipsch Audio Technologies | Home Audio

What is a binding post?

Fri, 12 Oct 2108 02:39:00 EST

A binding post in audio terms is a versatile type of speaker terminal that allows several types of connections. Many times referred to as a "Five-Way Binding Post" it accepts connections from bare wire and connectors attached to bare wire such as pins, banana plugs and spades. European consumer protection legislation now demands that the holes in the ends of 5-way binding posts be plugged. This is to avoid the potential for the user to plug European AC cords into speakers by mistake. The European power plug has pins similar in size to that which a 5-way post will accept.

How much amplifier/receiver power do I need?

Fri, 12 Oct 2108 02:39:00 EST

The output of a speaker (measured in decibels (dB)) for a given amount of amplifier power is termed its efficiency. Speakers with high efficiency will require less amplifier power to produce a given sound pressure level. Live music and movie soundtracks have peak levels as high as 120 dB. To attain just a 3 dB increase in volume, an amplifier's power must be doubled regardless what the speaker efficiency. Therefore, the amount of amplifier power needed if you wish to attain the sound pressure levels of a live orchestra or a large explosion in a movie is greatly dependent on the efficiency of your speakers. Here is a chart that shows two different speakers, one with 88 dB efficiency (common) and one with 100 dB efficiency, and the amplifier power need to produce given sound pressure levels:

The above charts show that the typical speaker with a sensitivity of 88 dB requires 1024 watts just to get to 118 dB! A more efficient speaker (example here is our KLF-30) requires just 64 watts to hit those levels of live music and Home Theatre. Therefore, the amount of amplifier power that a person needs is determined by the efficiency of the speaker that person is using plus the desired dB levels he or she wants to be able to produce. Other variables which impact the choice of amp power are the size of the listening room, the absorption characteristics of the wall and floor surface materials and the distance between listener and speakers. In a smaller room and with high efficiency speakers, 50 watts may be enough to provide full dynamic range. In a large room with low efficiency speakers, even 500 watts may not be enough. Higher speaker efficiency always helps deliver the most from whatever power you choose.

Should I play my speakers with the grilles off for better sound?

Fri, 12 Oct 2108 02:39:00 EST

There are many factors that have an effect on the way a speaker sounds besides how it is designed. Room acoustics and speaker placement are definitely two of the biggest variables that change the in-room sound. One of the other factors that can change a speaker's sound is its grille. The placement of a fabric or metal grille in front of a speaker can effect high frequency response and imaging. Your ears will tell you which sounds the best grilles on or grilles off. Remember that speaker grills also serve to protect the delicate drivers in your speakers, so if you have curious pets or young children, it may be best to leave the speaker grilles on at all times.

Are there some speakers better for music and some better for home theatre?

Fri, 12 Oct 2108 02:39:00 EST

This is similar to the age-old question "are some speakers better for rock music and others better for jazz and classical". If a speaker is truly accurate, it will perform properly on any kind of music. When it comes to home theater, the same is true for the main speakers. If they can't accurately reproduce music, they will not be good for home theater. Whether one is listening to a classical masterpiece or Terminator2, wide dynamic range, low distortion and flat frequency response are all important to make the sound realistic. A good speaker will be able to reproduce the music or the movie sound as close as possible to the way it originally sounded, whether that was in a concert hall or a recording studio. The only exception is rear and center speakers which must be uniquely designed for surround applications. They too must meet the fundamental requirements of accurate reproduction to be satisfying in the final analysis.

What is the rear center channel for and what type of speaker should I use?

Fri, 12 Oct 2108 02:39:00 EST

The rear center channel is a recent extension of both Dolby Digital and DTS 5.1 processing, called EX and ES respectively. It is based on the same principle as the front center channel which is to "localize" sounds in the center of the soundstage or give them a distinct area they are appear to come from, filling in the sound gap between the left and right rear channels. Therefore, the same type of speaker used for the front center may be used for the rear center. Because of the need to "localize" the sound to the center, a monopole center channel speaker is usually the best choice. Some electronics offer the option of using TWO rear center speakers. What will sound best is dependent on the size of the room and what type of surround speakers you choose. WDST™ surrounds generally do not require the addition of a rear center, but adding one enhances the localization of events in the rear sound field.

Where is the best place to put my main speakers in my room?

Fri, 12 Oct 2108 02:39:00 EST

Correct speaker placement leads to the best sounding bass and the best imaging. It is generally a good idea to keep speakers 4-6' away from side walls to minimize early reflections. Those reflections upset the tonal balance of the speaker and also interfere with proper imaging. In general, placing a speaker closer to a corner or back wall will produce more bass. Raising a speaker off of the floor (such as putting it on a stand) will reduce bass. The two (or three) speakers you have on your front channels should also have their midrange/tweeters all at the same height in order to create an even image. It is particularly disconcerting when a pan jumps up and down as it moves across the front stage.

Finally, we recommend, with Klipsch speakers, that the midrange/tweeter horn be "toed-in" toward the listener to create the best imaging. Experiment with distance from the back wall till bass balance is smooth and extended. To achieve good imaging without a "hole in the middle" do not place speakers father apart than the distance between you and the speakers. That is, not more than an equilateral triangle. If your speakers are too close together, you will reduce the width of the image almost to mono. Try to keep the distance between your Left and Right speakers a little more than half of the distance from you to the nearest speaker.

Why should I use speaker feet or spikes?

Fri, 12 Oct 2108 02:39:00 EST

Speaker spikes keep the speaker from rocking back and forth in response to driver motion, especially when the floor is carpeted. A midrange or tweeter moves very little on its own, and when bass is strong, the speaker may move more than either of these drivers due to the motion of the heavy woofer cone(s). This will have a negative affect on the sound. If the speaker is kept as still as possible, the definition and dynamics of the sound improves. On hard floor surfaces, the spikes can help to drain energy stored in the speaker cabinets into the floor, which will improve resolution. Make sure you do not use the spikes with a wood floor as this will cause damage to the wood. A coin under each spike, for example, will help protect the floor.

Where is the best place to put surround speakers?

Fri, 12 Oct 2108 02:39:00 EST

Surround speakers are generally designed to be placed on either side of the main listening position, approximately 5-7 feet above the floor. They should be mounted on a wall or positioned on a stand with some space on either side of the speaker (this is especially needed with bipole and dipole speakers which need wall-reflected sounds for maximum effect).

Klipsch WDST™ surround speakers offer more flexibility in that if side walls are not available, a rear wall or even a combination of a rear and side wall may be used to create excellent surround effects.

What are the different types of surround speakers available and what are the differences?

Fri, 12 Oct 2108 02:39:00 EST

There are three "common" types of surround speakers available today plus some unique types created by different speaker manufacturers.

"Monopole" speakers consist of a speaker or group of speakers all firing on the same plane in the same direction. This includes the vast majority of all speakers made. What people think of as "normal speakers" are termed Monopole. With regard to current surround sound formats, monopole speakers are the least desirable because they are the least effective in creating an "enveloping sound field" (ambience). They are good at localization, but that alone is not enough to produce the desired surround effect.

If you take a monopole speaker and add another speaker placed 180 degrees opposite of it (i.e. back to back) firing in the same phase, you have a "bipole" speaker. Firing in phase means all drivers on both sides are at the same excursion point at the same time. This creates the exact same sounds coming from both sides of the speaker at the same time. By design, Bipole speakers send no sound directly toward the listener. A bipole speaker will produce good "ambience" as all the sound is reflected off the walls of the room, but is not effective in producing "localized" sounds.

If you take the basic design of a bipole speaker with the rear facing drivers firing exactly opposite of the front, you have a "dipole" speaker. Dipole speakers produce a very diffuse sound, which is good for ambience, but, like bipoles, are not very effective at localization. Dipole design further reduces direct sound to the listening position.

Both bipole and dipole speakers should be mounted on the sides of the listening position and use reflected sound off of the walls to produce their effects. So if monopoles can offer localization but not enveloping ambience, and bi-pole/dipole speakers deliver ambience without localization, what can provide both important characteristics at the same time?

Klipsch produces a unique surround speaker that utilizes a technology called Wide Dispersion Surround Technology (WDST™). Each WDST™ enabled speaker contains two Tractrix® Horn drivers and a woofer. Each horn covers a 90-degree arc and the combination of the two covers a full 180 degrees. This coverage gives excellent ambiance without having to use the walls to reflect sound. The controlled pattern of each horn (what we call "controlled directivity") leads to excellent localization of sounds because there is sound directed at the listening position, regardless of where in the room you are seated. And because the WDST™ surround speaker does not rely on wall reflections, it can be mounted in many different places in a room, leading to greater flexibility with placement. It is rare to have perfect side-wall positions available due to the placement of doors, drapes, furniture and such. WDST™ design delivers enveloping ambience WITH localization for the ideal surround sound result AND gives you the flexibility of placement to solve room design problems.

How should I set my home theater receiver for a particular speaker size?

Fri, 12 Oct 2108 02:39:00 EST

The "bass management" option on today's home theater receivers is designed to route mid- or low-bass or both frequencies to a subwoofer in the system. What setting you should select is based on the bass capabilities of the speakers in question.

In general, "satellite" and bookshelf speakers should be set to "small." Floor-standing speakers should be set to "medium" or "large" depending on their ability to accurately reproduce deeper bass. At the same time this option is set, the frequency of the subwoofer's bass reproduction should also be set. If, for example, you have small bookshelf speakers you have set to "small", you should set your subwoofer to 100-120 Hz. If you have big speakers set to the "large" setting, you should set the subwoofer lower (i.e. 50-80 Hz).

The correct settings on both the receiver and subwoofer will allow the subwoofer to pick up the bass where the speaker leaves off; creating a smooth transition that reduces boominess at frequencies both the subwoofer and the speaker are delivering. The correct settings are best obtained after experimentation yields the best sound to your ears.

Can I use the same speakers for the rear as for the front or do I have to use surrounds?

Fri, 12 Oct 2108 02:39:00 EST

Rear speakers are used for, basically, two different types of sounds. Although music applications may have some "localized" sounds (sounds coming distinctly from one of the rear speakers), the majority of the rear speaker's use is to "surround" the listener in sound by simulating, for example, the sound of a large audience in the background and/or reflected music from the rear walls of a concert hall.

Home Theater (movie) sound uses a more even combination of both ambient and localized sounds. The main or front left and right speakers in a system are most often, monopole speakers, which radiate high and midrange frequencies in a directional pattern, thus making them less able to create good ambience when used as surround speakers.

When choosing surround speakers, it is important to use similar mid/high frequency drivers as are in the front, usually staying with the same brand of speakers that are used as mains. The other advantage with using specially designed surround speakers is that their smaller size and mounting capability allow them to be placed in the correct space at the correct height for maximum effect. This is a controversial aspect of home audio as some people advocate use of identical speakers front and rear.

The Klipsch philosophy is to achieve the tonal and dynamic match, which can be obtained with identical front and rear speakers, but with the unique directional characteristics required for a convincing surround experience.

Can I put more than one subwoofer in my room?

Fri, 12 Oct 2108 02:39:00 EST

Sometimes, adding a second subwoofer can smooth bass response throughout the room. This is due to strong acoustic standing waves in the room which are dependent on the basic room dimensions (height, length, and width) and the placement of the sub and primary listening area. With a single sub, it is possible to obtain strong bass at one spot, with very weak bass elsewhere in the room. You can hear this by carefully listening to bass as you move a few feet in any direction. If you have strong bass/weak bass problems, using a second sub in a different location may reduce the severity of the problem. The important thing to remember is to find what sounds best to you! Each room is different; experiment until you find the placement that produces the most pleasing bass to your ears.

Some people feel they can never have enough bass. So long as they are placed properly, multiple subwoofers typically produce more bass. It is important to note that unless the second subwoofer goes deeper than the first one, adding additional subwoofers will only raise the bass volume—it will not produce deeper base. You’ll need to experiment with different positions (as previously described) to find the best places for two or more subwoofers. Some people use one subwoofer for a certain frequency range and the second for another (such as the LFE channel in 5.1 recordings). Other options are to connect one subwoofer to the front channels and one to the rear channels, or one to the center channel and the other to the remaining channels.

Where is the best place to put a subwoofer in my room?

Fri, 12 Oct 2108 02:39:00 EST

It is generally believed that the bass you hear below approximately 80 Hz is non-directional. This means that you can point the loudspeaker in any direction and the sound will still reach the listener's ears. Since much of the bass that subwoofers produce is below that frequency, you can place the subwoofer almost anywhere in the room. This is the opposite of full-range speakers, which have just a few placement options in a room that allow them to sound good, since they must be positioned for the best combination of imaging and tonal balance. Putting a subwoofer in a corner of the room may cause the sub to sound louder. If your subwoofer is a ported design, keep it at least twice the diameter of the port exit (probably 6-12 inches) away from the nearest wall, so that air flowing out of the port is not obstructed. If the bass seems too boomy, you can fine-tune the sub by moving it farther from the wall until it sounds smooth to your ears.

The best way to find the ideal place for your subwoofer is to hook it up and put it right where you will be sitting in the room. Set the subwoofer to level, low pass and phase. Play something with consistent, deep bass and move around the room on your knees; this way your head is about where it would be when you are seated. The spot where the bass sounds best is a spot where you might put your subwoofer. You may find more than one location.

Corner placement of the subwoofer typically yields the loudest output (highest efficiency). This does not mean that it will always sound best in this position; experimenting with placement is always suggested. It's also important to have the sound from the sub reach the listener in sync with the sound from the main speakers; otherwise the sound may not blend properly. You should not be able to hear your subwoofer as a separate entity—it should seem that your main speakers go deeper with greater impact and authority.

What does "IMG" stand for?

Fri, 12 Oct 2108 02:39:00 EST

IMG refers to a type of material used for speaker cones. It stands for Injection Molded Graphite.

I’m experiencing a humming or buzzing noise. What should I check?

Fri, 12 Oct 2108 02:39:00 EST

This could be a ground loop hum/buzz or possibly a transformer hum through the speakers. In fact, large subwoofer transformers are more susceptible to a slight hum noise.

A speaker hum at your listening location is never normal. To determine if the sub amp is functioning correctly, the best thing to do is disconnect all of the connection inputs going into the subwoofer. Keeping the subwoofer plugged into the AC outlet, turn it on; if the hum still exists, there may be a ground loop issue or a problem in the sub amplifier. In that case, the amp should be serviced or replaced. If there is no hum at that point, the issue might involve the preamp or another ‘upstream’ source component. Some common causes of a ground loop hum are cable TV connections, digital recorders or satellite dish receivers.

If the hum issue is found to be with a cable TV coax wire, then a device called a MAGIC box possibly may help eliminate the ground loop from cable TV, or an OTA antenna. Some, if not all surge protectors have a cable or satellite in and out cable connection; try that as well.

Subwoofer Direct CD Test

Fri, 12 Oct 2108 02:39:00 EST

If you get little or no sound from your subwoofer, perform a "direct in" test to determine if the problem is more than a simple cable or level-setting issue. Start by using a different set of RCA connector cables, then connect the analog audio out from a CD player or DVD player directly into the subwoofer's LINE IN connections. Then, turn the volume level on the subwoofer all the way down. While playing a CD, raise the volume level on the subwoofer; you should hear the bass portion from the source material. If the subwoofer still duplicates the problem, then the issue may be a blown woofer or involve the sub amplifier. However, if the subwoofer functions correctly, then the issue may be with a cable, the receiver and/or a level setting.

An even better method to calibrate your phase:

Fri, 12 Oct 2108 02:39:00 EST

Start by applying a test signal (a CD or DVD available through most audio specialty dealers) to both main speakers and the subwoofer at the approximate crossover frequency of your sub. For instance, your frequency might be set at 60Hz. Place a test microphone at the listening location or simply use your ears to evaluate the signal.

Vary the phase (0/180) switch while playing the signal through both the mains and the subwoofer at the same time with the polarity of the main speakers INVERTED with respect to their normal hookup (black/negative to red/positive).

Vary the subwoofer phase until you get the lowest output at the turnover frequency. Go back to mains, and return their polarity to normal (negative to negative, positive to positive); your main speakers and subwoofer phase should be matched. In order to get the phase settings even closer, you’ll probably need sophisticated measurement/test equipment and signal generators.

How do I set subwoofer phase?

Fri, 12 Oct 2108 02:39:00 EST

Depending on the absolute phase of your main speakers and amplifier and the distances of the subwoofer and the main speakers from the listening position, the bass in the crossover region may be smoother if you reverse the subwoofer’s phase. Typically, though, phase is left at 0° for most applications.

While seated in your listening sweet spot, play music with bass content that is familiar to you and then have someone switch the 0/180 phase switch on the sub to 180-degrees. This will let you determine if the bass sounds louder in your seating position. The more bass-heavy setting is where the output of the subwoofer and the main speakers are most in phase. Use whatever position (0/180) is louder at your seating location. (Note: some subwoofers may contain a “variable” phase control, which provides variable control between 0 and 180 for even more precise phase control of your subwoofer.) However, if you do not notice any difference when changing the 0-180 setting, it only means there are no issues in your room and all is fine.

Can I program a “learning” remote to operate my subwoofer?

Fri, 12 Oct 2108 02:39:00 EST

Although Klipsch has provided download files for remote control operation, we do not officially support any remote control issues. Our tech support group has not programmed any learning remotes to function with the RT series; they do, however, provide the IR codes. Any issues that might arise concerning the programming of remotes would be technical support issues for the individual remote control manufacturers.

Codes for the Phillips Pronto, RTI, and Universal Remote controls are not “read text” files. Unless your remote is programmable via PC, it’s unlikely these will be of any use. If your remote is not one of these brands, you should still be able to obtain files to program them. (See below) To use our codes, unzip them to your hard drive and connect the remote via cable to your computer; the codes are downloaded directly into the remote.

For example, to program UEI manufactured remotes, go to http://www.uei.com. Under products, you should see One-For-All, Kameleon and Nevo. The code should work, once you use a standard number code (1991) to program. In theory, after you have a working remote, a learning remote should be able to "learn" the codes from the programmed unit, just as it would for any other remote.

Logitech has the codes for all Harmony remotes for the Klipsch model subs noted below. All Harmony remotes should accept the same programming. Add the device from the Harmony software in the following manner. http://www.logitech.com

Add “Device”, choose “Amplifier”, choose “Amplifier” the second time, choose “Klipsch” from the manufacturers’ listing and type in the model precisely as they are below for the model you own:

• RW-10d
• RW-12d
• RSW-10d
• RT-10d
• RT-12d

What is the basic set up for the Quintet™ III and optional SUB 10 or 12 subwoofer?

Fri, 12 Oct 2108 02:39:00 EST

For most home theater systems, you’ll use a standard RCA connector hookup. This is a shielded wire that is similar in construction to the wires leading from a DVD player to a receiver. It will connect to the single SUB or LFE jack on the back of your receiver and to either of the two inputs on the back of the sub. If you wish, you may obtain a ‘Y’ connector to hook up to both of the sub inputs; this will result in a slight increase in volume.

Cables specifically designed for subwoofer use typically are better shielded than standard ‘patch cables’ and may offer possible noise reduction or cancellation from electrical devices the cable may come in contact with. Some subwoofer cables are directional, (one end always hooks up to receiver, the other to the sub), so always read any instructions that come with your specialty cabling.

Settings in the receiver’s menu system are detailed in the owner’s manual. Here are some suggestions for getting the best possible sound and reliability from your Quintet III with subwoofer system:

• Set all speakers to SMALL setting within the speaker setup controls,
• Adjust the crossover (or Low Pass filter) to 110 or 120 Hz.
• Set the LFE out to SUB ONLY (options might include mains or sub + mains)

Settings on the SUB rear panel are as follows:

• Set the gain/volume to 8 to begin with; you’ll fine tune the balance with receiver remote control.
• Set the low pass/crossover dial fully clockwise to 120. This eliminates the sub’s filter system.
• Set the phase switch to ‘0’; you won’t be using this with the Quintet system.
• Set the ON/OFF switch near the power cable to ON. This is the master power switch.
• Set the auto/ON switch to AUTO. The sub will sense when music or a soundtrack is present and
automatically turn the power on. It will wait a few minutes after the end of the movie to shut off.

If your receiver came with an ‘optimizer’ microphone and setup system, make sure to check the receiver’s settings after running the auto-setup. It is important that your speakers remain set to the SMALL setting. Quintet III satellite speakers cannot reproduce bass tones; allowing the receiver to send bass to them at movie levels might damage them.

How do I bi-amp?

Fri, 12 Oct 2108 02:39:00 EST

Bi-amping is similar to bi-wiring, but involves separate amplifiers, one for the woofer and one for the midrange/tweeter. Passive bi-amping involves a direct hookup between each amplifier and the speakers separate high frequency and low frequency input terminals (if the speaker is so equipped). Active bi-amping involves inserting an active (electronic) crossover network between the preamp and the power amplifiers typically one amplifier for the woofer and another amplifier for the mid/highs. This should only be done on a speaker that does not have a, passive crossover network in the speaker. Ideally the active crossover would be designed to work with a specific loudspeaker. Passive bi-amping is easier to do but care must be taken to match the gain structures of the amplifiers if they are different designs. Failure to do this may result in a noticeable upset of the speakers spectral balance (too much or not enough bass for instance). Active bi-amping is a difficult and expensive approach that we do not recommend with any of our home entertainment loudspeakers.

What is the difference between bi-wiring and bi-amping?

Fri, 12 Oct 2108 02:39:00 EST

Bi-wiring is using the same power source (amplifier) but separately connecting that power source to a woofer and a midrange/tweeter on a speaker.

Bi-amping is using two separate power sources (amplifiers) and connecting one amplifier to a woofer and the other amplifier to a midrange/tweeter on a speaker.

What is the best way for me to hook up my subwoofer?

Fri, 12 Oct 2108 02:39:00 EST

The optimal connection is to use the RCA (Phono) "sub" or "woofer" line out found on Home Theater receivers and pre-amps. Some subwoofers offer High Level inputs (speaker wire connections), they are there for use with a receiver or pre-amp without a sub RCA connection. You don't need to use both and in most cases it's not recommended.

Just as receivers and preamplifiers are different across brands, subwoofer brands may be different as well. Every room may be unique in the way it supports or cancels low frequency information. The quantity of bass desired may differ for each listener. Additionally, hookups to the same amps or receivers and the same subwoofers can produce different results if "bass management" settings (speaker size selectors, etc.) or subwoofer settings are different. The best thing to do is to experiment until it sounds just right for your listening style.

In some rare cases, you may find an RCA connector marked LFE (Low Frequency Effects) on a receiver or pre-amp; hooking up the "LFE" jacks usually only sends bass special effects of a 5.1- encoded movie to the subwoofer. In that case, when music is played on a two-channel source (for example, a CD), the subwoofer may not receive any signal at all. That situation would call for a hookup of both the "LFE" jacks and the speaker terminal jacks to a subwoofer, in order for the sub to produce bass with all sources. You would need to set the main speakers to "large" in the receiver or pre-amp set-up menu. If you have both LFE and sub out connections on a receiver or preamp, your best choice would be to use the ‘sub out’ connector, because the LFE signal may still be mixed in with the sub channel.

Be sure to check the owner’s manual that came with the subwoofer about connecting to both LFE in and speaker wire inputs. With some older subwoofers, this was listed as "optional" and it's fine to connect to both; however with most subs today, this is not recommended, as it may damage the sub electronics. So double-check the manual or contact our tech support department to clarify any questions regarding Klipsch subs.

In the end, it comes down to what sounds best to you, given your equipment and your individual tastes. It takes some time and experimentation, but when you have listened to all your options, you’ll know which one is best for you.

How do I bi-wire?

Fri, 12 Oct 2108 02:39:00 EST

Your speaker must have two separate positive and negative connections (one set for the woofer and one set for the midrange/tweeter). Connect one wire between the positive terminal on the amplifier/receiver the positive terminal on the speaker. Connect the other wire from the negative terminal on the amplifier/receiver to the corresponding negative terminal on the speaker. Remove the jumper straps connecting the two sets of speaker inputs. Repeat this process for the second set of terminals on the speaker, connecting them to the same positive and negative terminals on the receiver/amplifier. Repeat the steps for each speaker you wish to Bi-Wire, connecting them to the appropriate terminals on your receiver/amplifier.

What are the different ways of hooking up a subwoofer?

Fri, 12 Oct 2108 02:39:00 EST

The first method works with all amplifiers and receivers, whether they are set up for home theater reproduction or not. Connect the positive speaker terminal of the receiver/amp to the corresponding (right channel, left channel, etc.) positive speaker input terminal on the subwoofer. Then, connect the negative speaker lead from the amp/receiver in the same manner. Repeat for the next speaker. Connect the speaker leads from the receiver (main L&R) to the subwoofer speaker level inputs. Then, run wire from the sub speaker level outputs to your main left and right speakers. This method allows the subwoofer to produce the low frequencies, sending the upper bass, midrange and high frequencies to each connected speaker. Most subwoofers have controls so that the user can determine the range of low frequencies they want the sub to produce.

The second method applies to amps and receivers that have a separate subwoofer out jack or a separate LFE (Low Frequency Effects) jack. The LFE output is the .1 in the Dolby® Digital 5.1 designation and applies to those amps or receivers that have that feature. Remember that 2-channel recordings never have any LFE signal. These connections use an RCA jack, so a cable with those jacks is necessary (special "subwoofer cables" use these jacks and may be purchased separately). Connect the "line out" jack of the amp/receiver to the "line in" jack of the subwoofer (or the "LFE" out to the "LFE" in); two-channel signals will have “sub out” but NEVER have LFE out. This connection allows the amp or receiver to control the low frequencies going to the subwoofer. These frequencies are directed by the "bass management function" in the amp or receiver. Examples of "bass management" include, but are not limited to, speaker size settings (i.e. Large or Small) or subwoofer output controls located in the amp/receiver.

The third method of hookup involves some combination of all of the hookups listed above